Why container olives rely entirely on you
In a Mediterranean grove, an olive sends roots deep and wide through lean soil and largely feeds itself. In a pot, it has none of that, only the small volume of soil you give it, and every watering carries nutrients out the bottom. That makes steady, measured feeding important for a potted olive, but the emphasis is on measured, because the plant itself is built for lean conditions.
Olives like it lean, and that means low phosphorus
Olives evolved in poor, rocky soils, so they are among the lighter feeders you can grow, and they specifically dislike high phosphorus. Overfeeding an olive, especially with a heavy, balanced, or high-phosphorus fertilizer, tends to push soft leafy growth and can work against flowering and fruit. This kit uses an 18-6-12 ratio that is nitrogen-forward and low in phosphorus, released slowly, which matches what an olive actually wants rather than force-feeding it.
Boron and fruit set in olives
Among fruiting plants, olives are notably dependent on boron for good flowering and fruit set, and boron shortage is a common, quiet reason an olive flowers but fails to set. The calcium spray in this kit includes boron for exactly this reason, applied around flowering and fruit set to support the nutritional side of fruiting. It will not override the other things olives need to fruit, but it covers a requirement many general fertilizers miss.
Why olives skip years and need a cool winter
Two olive habits surprise new growers. First, olives are alternate-bearing, so a heavy crop one year is often followed by a light one, which is normal and not a feeding problem. Second, olives need a cool winter rest, a stretch of chilly weather, to trigger spring flowering, which is why an olive kept warm indoors year-round may grow well but never fruit. Feeding supports a healthy tree, but chill and the tree's natural rhythm set the crop.