Meyer lemon care at a glance
Meyer lemons are the easiest lemon to grow at home. They stay compact in a pot, bloom more than once a year, and give fruit that's sweeter and less sharp than a grocery-store lemon. Give them bright light, steady water and regular feeding, and they'll fruit indoors or out. Growing Eureka, Lisbon or another variety? See our lemon tree care guide.
|
Need |
What a Meyer lemon wants |
|---|---|
|
Light |
8+ hours of direct sun, or a south-facing window plus a grow light |
|
Water |
When the top 2 inches of soil feel dry; water until it drains out the bottom |
|
Soil |
Fast-draining citrus mix, pH around 6.0–6.5 |
|
Temperature |
55–85°F; bring it inside before nights drop below 50°F |
|
Feeding |
Every 4–6 weeks in the growing season, lighter in winter |
|
Fruit |
Usually 2–3 years after you plant a grafted tree; fruit ripens 6–9 months after bloom |
|
Where it grows outside |
Year-round in USDA zones 9–11; in a pot everywhere else |
Light: the one thing you can't skimp on
Meyer lemons need at least 8 hours of direct sun to flower and fruit well. Outdoors, give them the sunniest spot you have. Indoors, put them right next to a south-facing window, or a west-facing one if that's all you have.
Most homes don't get enough winter light for citrus. If your tree sits more than a few feet from the glass, add a full-spectrum LED grow light for 12–14 hours a day, hung about a foot above the canopy. Turn the pot a quarter turn every week or two so the whole tree gets light.
Watering: deep, then wait
Water when the top 2 inches of soil feel dry, then water slowly until it runs out the drainage holes. Empty the saucer after 30 minutes so the roots never sit in water.
In summer heat, a potted Meyer may need water every 2–3 days. Indoors in winter, it may go a week or more. Let the soil tell you instead of a calendar: push a finger in up to the second knuckle, or use a cheap moisture meter. Soggy soil and bone-dry soil both show up as yellow or dropping leaves.
Soil and pots
Meyer lemons want soil that drains fast and still holds a little moisture. Use a citrus potting mix, or a bark-based mix like the 5-1-1 recipe. Skip garden soil in pots; it packs down and stays wet.
Pick a pot with several drainage holes. Go only one or two sizes bigger than the nursery pot, since a pot that's too large holds extra water the roots can't use. A mature potted Meyer is happy in a 10–15 gallon container. Put heavy pots on a plant caddy with wheels if you'll move the tree indoors for winter.
Temperature and moving indoors
Meyer lemons grow best between 55°F and 85°F. They can handle a brief dip toward freezing, but frost damages leaves and young fruit. In USDA zones 9–11 they can stay outside year-round with frost cloth on the coldest nights.
Everywhere else, bring the tree inside once nights start dropping below 50°F. Make the move gradual: a week or so in a shadier outdoor spot first, then indoors next to your brightest window. Keep it away from heating vents and cold drafts. A few dropped leaves in the first weeks is a normal reaction to the change; see why citrus drops leaves after a move for how to help it settle. In spring, reverse the process once nights stay above 50°F.
Feeding: the biggest difference between leaves and lemons
Meyer lemons are heavy feeders, and a potted tree loses nutrients every time water drains out the bottom. Feed every 4–6 weeks from late winter through summer. Indoors in winter, keep feeding but lighter, because Meyers keep flowering and fruiting through the year.
Look for three things in a lemon tree fertilizer:
- Nitrogen as the lead nutrient. It drives the leafy growth that fuels flowers and fruit, with moderate potassium and less phosphorus.
- Micronutrients. Iron, zinc, manganese and magnesium wash out of pots fast. A shortage of them is behind much of the pale or yellow leaf color on potted citrus.
- Calcium. A tree carrying fruit year-round needs a steady supply to hold onto it.
Our Lemon Tree Fertilizer Kit packs all three into pre-measured doses with a schedule, so you don't have to work out amounts or timing. Growing a big tree or one in the ground? Use the Large & In-Ground kit instead. For the full deep dive, see our lemon tree fertilizer guide.
Flowers, fruit and harvest
Meyer lemons are self-fertile, so one tree can fruit on its own. Outdoors, bees handle pollination. Indoors, do it yourself: brush a small, soft paintbrush inside each open flower, moving from bloom to bloom every few days while the tree is flowering.
Expect the tree to drop many tiny green fruits after bloom. That's normal; it keeps only what it can carry. Steady water and feeding help it hold more.
Fruit takes 6–9 months to ripen. A ripe Meyer is deep yellow, often with a slight orange tint, and gives a little when squeezed. Ripe fruit holds on the tree for weeks, so pick as you need it. Snip the stem with pruners instead of pulling.
Pruning and repotting
Prune lightly, right after a harvest or in early spring. Remove dead or crossing branches, thin crowded growth in the center, and trim long shoots to keep an indoor tree a manageable size. Take off no more than about a fifth of the tree at once.
Most young Meyers are grafted onto a hardier rootstock. Snip off any shoots growing from below the graft, the knobby spot low on the trunk, because they steal energy and never give you Meyer lemons. Here's how to tell if your tree is grafted.
Repot every 2–3 years in spring, one pot size up, with fresh mix. Once the tree is in the largest pot you can manage, refresh the top few inches of soil each spring instead.
Common Meyer lemon problems and fixes
Most Meyer lemon trouble comes down to light, water or nutrition. Match what you see to the likely cause:
|
What you see |
Likely cause |
What to do |
|---|---|---|
|
Yellow leaves with green veins, on new growth |
Low iron or other micronutrients, often from high soil pH |
Feed micronutrients as a leaf spray; check soil pH |
|
Pale yellow-green leaves all over |
Not enough nitrogen |
Start a regular feeding schedule |
|
Leaves dropping after a move |
Shock from new light and temperature |
Keep it in one bright spot and water evenly |
|
Flowers or small fruit falling |
Dry spells, uneven feeding or low calcium |
Water evenly; feed steadily with calcium |
|
Brown, crispy leaf tips |
Salt buildup in the pot or underwatering |
Flush the pot with plenty of water every few months |
|
No flowers |
Too little light, or a very young tree |
Add light; give a young tree time |
For more on leaf color, see the most common causes of yellow citrus leaves.
Where to get a Meyer lemon tree
Shopping for a tree? Trees.com carries citrus trees and can add a GrowScripts kit to your order, so your tree arrives with everything it needs to get fed from day one.
Frequently asked questions
How long does a Meyer lemon tree take to fruit? A grafted tree from a nursery usually fruits within 2–3 years. Trees grown from seed take several years longer.
Can a Meyer lemon tree live indoors all year? Yes, with strong light. A south-facing window plus a grow light works. Trees that spend summer outside usually set more fruit.
How big does a Meyer lemon tree get? In a pot, about 4–6 feet with light pruning. In the ground, usually 6–10 feet.
How often should I fertilize a Meyer lemon tree? Every 4–6 weeks from late winter through summer, and lighter through winter if it's indoors. A lemon tree fertilizer kit takes the guesswork out of amounts and timing.
Why are my Meyer lemon's leaves turning yellow? Usually from too much or too little water, or a shortage of nitrogen or micronutrients. Check the table above to match the pattern you see.
Growing oranges too? See our orange tree care guide. Growing kumquats? See our kumquat tree care guide.

