Citrus Care Q&A: Causes and Fixes for Yellow Leaves, Leaf Drop, Curling, and Indoor Stress

Yellowing indoors usually happens because light drops, roots slow down, and the tree can’t move magnesium, iron, and nitrogen efficiently. That slowdown shows up as yellow leaves, especially on older growth.

Fix:

• Give the tree 6–8 hours of bright light or a small grow light.
• Keep the soil slightly moist, not soggy.
• Use a citrus-friendly fertilizer with magnesium and micronutrients (like the GrowScripts Citrus Care Kit).

Leaves usually improve in 2–3 weeks once light and nutrition are steady.

Yellow veins with greener edges (interveinal chlorosis) point to an iron or manganese deficiency. Indoors, this often happens when roots are slowed by low light and soil that stays too wet.

Fix:

• Increase light if possible.
• Let the top 2–3 inches of soil dry before watering again.
• Feed with a micronutrient blend that includes iron and manganese.

Veins usually green up within 10–14 days after correcting light and micros.

Pale new leaves usually mean the tree is short on iron and magnesium, especially indoors where roots are slower. New growth needs the most nutrition, so it shows stress first.

Fix:

• Brighten the light (window + grow light if needed).
• Add a citrus-specific micronutrient supplement.
• Avoid overwatering so roots can breathe.

Light green leaves from top to bottom usually mean a general lack of nutrients or not enough light. The tree is alive, but it doesn’t have the energy or nutrition to stay deep green.

Fix:

• Make sure the tree gets strong, direct light daily.
• Follow a steady feeding schedule with balanced fertilizer and micros.
• Check that the plant isn’t rootbound or sitting in heavy, compacted soil.

Yes. Calcium helps build firm leaf tips, strong new growth, and better fruit quality. A lack of calcium can show up as crispy tips, distorted new leaves, or weak stems.

Fix:

• Use a citrus fertilizer or kit that includes calcium.
• Keep watering consistent so the tree can move calcium through the plant.
• Avoid heavy salt buildup, which can compete with calcium uptake.

Brown, crispy tips usually come from calcium imbalance, salt buildup, or very dry indoor air. This is especially common in winter when heaters run.

Fix:

• Use filtered or low-mineral water if yours is very hard.
• Feed lightly but consistently with a citrus-specific nutrient plan.
• Increase humidity around the plant with a tray of pebbles and water or a small humidifier.

When you move a citrus tree indoors, it quickly loses light, airflow, and stable humidity. The tree reacts by dropping extra leaves it can’t support in lower light. This is classic indoor transition shock.

Fix:

• Increase light as much as possible right away.
• Keep humidity more stable around the tree.
• Use a gentle foliar micronutrient spray to help remaining leaves stay put.

Some leaf drop is normal. The tree usually stabilizes within 3–6 weeks.

Citrus often pause growth when light is low, temperatures are cool, or nutrients are short. Indoors, this slowdown is common in winter.

Fix:

• Make sure the tree gets strong, bright light every day.
• Feed consistently with a citrus-friendly fertilizer and micros.
• Check that the pot isn’t extremely rootbound and that the soil drains well.

Once conditions improve, new growth should restart on its own.

Citrus often produce more flowers than they can support. Flowers can drop from low humidity, sudden environmental changes, or general stress.

Fix:

• Keep humidity steady around the tree.
• Avoid big changes in watering or light.
• Maintain a steady feeding schedule rather than heavy, occasional fertilizer.

Some flower drop is normal; you don’t want every bloom to become a fruit on a potted tree.

Moving a citrus tree indoors for winter is stressful. The biggest shocks are light loss, temperature change, and dry indoor air.

Tips:

• Move it inside before nights get very cold.
• Place it immediately in the brightest spot you have.
• Keep watering and feeding consistent (but lighter than summer).
• Expect some leaf drop and let the tree adjust.

Citrus are not low-light plants. Indoors, they need at least 6–8 hours of bright, direct light or a grow light for 8–12 hours a day.

Signs of low light:

• Leaves turn pale or yellow.
• New growth stretches and looks weak.
• Fruit or buds drop.

A simple, inexpensive grow light can solve many indoor citrus problems.

Yes, many people keep citrus indoors all year, especially in cooler climates. The keys to success are strong light, proper nutrition, good drainage, and patience.

For year-round indoor citrus:

• Use a bright window and/or grow light.
• Feed regularly but not heavily.
• Use a well-draining potting mix designed for containers.
• Foliar-feed occasionally to support foliage health.

No fruit can come from low light, a tree that is still young, stress, or fertilizer that is too heavy in nitrogen without enough micronutrients.

Fix:

• Give the tree as much direct light as possible.
• Feed with a citrus formula that includes micronutrients.
• Avoid repotting or big changes during flowering.
• Hand-pollinate flowers indoors with a small brush.

Citrus bloom best with strong light, steady nutrition, and a slight difference between day and night temperatures. Stress, heavy pruning, or overfertilizing can delay blooms.

Tips:

• Provide bright light every day.
• Use balanced fertilizer with micros rather than just nitrogen.
• Allow for cooler nights if possible.

Citrus naturally grow toward the strongest light source. Over time, a potted tree can lean or stretch in one direction.

Fix:

• Rotate the pot every week so all sides see light.
• Increase overhead or side lighting.
• Stake gently if needed while it rebalances.

In winter, roots slow down indoors, so the tree uses water more slowly. Overwatering is the most common issue.

Guidelines:

• Water thoroughly until it drains out the bottom.
• Let the top 2–3 inches of soil dry before watering again.
• Never let the pot sit in standing water.

Drooping leaves can mean either underwatering or overwatering. The difference is in how the soil and leaves feel.

Quick check:

• Dry soil + soft, floppy leaves = likely underwatering.
• Wet, heavy soil + soft, heavy leaves = likely overwatering.

Adjust watering based on soil moisture, not just the calendar.

Citrus in pots need a fast-draining mix so roots can get air and avoid rot. Heavy garden soil is not a good choice.

Look for mixes with:

• Pine bark or similar chunky material.
• Perlite or pumice for drainage.
• Peat or coco coir for moisture retention.

For long-term container growing, a minimum of 5–7 gallons is a good starting point. Too small and the tree will dry out and stress quickly; too large and the soil may stay wet too long.

Tip: Always choose a pot with large drainage holes.

Wrinkled or puckered leaves can come from magnesium deficiency, mites, or uneven watering. The texture of the leaf and presence of pests will help you narrow it down.

Fix:

• Add a citrus-specific micronutrient source with magnesium.
• Check the undersides of leaves for mites or other pests.
• Keep watering more even and avoid big wet/dry swings.

Potted citrus need more than just NPK. The best fertilizer plan includes:

• Balanced NPK for steady growth.
• Extra magnesium (citrus uses a lot of it).
• Micronutrients like iron, manganese, zinc.
• Calcium for strong leaves and better fruit quality.

Most one-size-fits-all fertilizers don’t include all of these at the right levels. The GrowScripts Citrus Care Kit is designed to cover these needs for container citrus.

Indoors, citrus do better with small, steady feeding rather than heavy fertilizer all at once.

General schedule:

• Micronutrients about once a month.
• Balanced citrus fertilizer every 4–6 months.
• Optional light foliar feeding every 2–4 weeks in winter.

This is the idea behind the GrowScripts Citrus Care Kit: simple, scheduled feeding that is easy to follow.

A simple plan works best:

• Spring & summer: regular fertilizer plus monthly micros.
• Fall & winter: lighter feeding, focus on micros and occasional foliar sprays.

The goal is steady support, not heavy doses. Your small citrus care kit can anchor this schedule for the whole year.

Yes. Foliar feeding can be very helpful indoors because the tree can take in micronutrients directly through the leaves while roots are slower in low light.

Benefits:

• Helps keep remaining leaves greener.
• Supports the tree during winter and after moves.
• Can reduce the severity of yellowing and leaf drop.

A tree that is alive but underperforming is usually missing one or two basics: enough light, enough magnesium, good soil drainage, or a consistent feeding plan.

Check these:

• Is it in the brightest possible location?
• Is the soil fast-draining, not heavy and soggy?
• Are you feeding regularly with citrus-appropriate fertilizer and micros?

Sticky leaves usually mean honeydew, a sugary residue left behind by sap-sucking pests like aphids, scale, or whiteflies.

Fix:

• Inspect stems and leaf undersides for pests (bumps, dots, or moving insects).
• Wipe leaves gently with soapy water.
• Follow up with a gentle horticultural oil or insecticidal soap if needed.

The most common indoor citrus pests are:

• Scale: small, hard bumps on stems and leaves.
• Spider mites: tiny specks and fine webbing.
• Aphids: soft-bodied insects on new growth.
• Fungus gnats: small flies from overly wet soil.

Regularly checking leaves and stems is the best way to catch issues early.

Leaf curl can come from different issues, and the shape of the curl helps tell the story:

• Tip curl (tips fold under and feel firm): often magnesium or calcium imbalance.
• Tube curl (leaf rolls into a tube): may be pests like aphids or mites, or extreme dryness.
• Downward clawing: often salt buildup or watering stress.

Address the underlying issue; old curled leaves won’t uncurl, but new growth should look normal.

A new citrus tree is already adjusting from the nursery environment to your home. Big changes right away can stress it.

Best first steps:

• Place it in the brightest spot you have.
• Avoid repotting for the first 4–6 weeks unless it is severely rootbound.
• Start a gentle, consistent feeding routine.
• Water based on soil feel, not on a fixed schedule.

Most potted citrus start to stress when temperatures drop into the low 40s °F (5–7 °C), and they are at risk of serious damage if exposed to a hard freeze.

General rule: If frost is in the forecast, protect or bring the tree inside.